Sunday, March 30, 2008

Enter carefully...there are reefs

I wasn't able to run last week. Instead, I was pursuing my other love in life: sailing. So, be warned, this post will be a deviation from the usual running theme.

Leaving nyc last Saturday, we felt a mix of excitement and apprehension about kicking our sailing skills up a notch in the Grenadines. Rumor has it that the sea is rougher, the wind stronger, and the terrain more challenging. (All rumors proved true.)
Early Sunday morning we boarded "Monowai," a 38 foot Bavaria, out of True Blue Bay, Grenada, WI.



Our first sail was a 40 mile trip up to the island of Carriacou. This included a fun little portion barely missing the exclusion zone around "Kick 'em Jenny," an active underwater volcano. It also meant open ocean sailing complete with 15 foot swells and lots of salty water crashing over the bow. Though we weren't sure if the volcano was rumbling during our time of passage, it certainly didn't blow up. Needless to say, we arrived safely in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou.




Since our sailing trip originated in Grenada, we had to clear customs and immigration a number of times. This meant we got to make fun little stops in Hillsborough Bay, Carriacou to check out of Grenada (where immigration was working Easter Monday, but customs was MIA) and in Clifton Harbor, Union Island to check in to the Grenadines. We ended this sail in Chatham Bay, Union Island--a very nice bay with an easy anchorage and very few boats. Since this section of the island was basically uninhabited, there were no restaurants. Cooking aboard the boat was a new experience for us, but we successfully conquered the intricate stove stystem (after realizing there was no solenoid switch...)
Arguably, the highlight of St. Vincent and the Grenadines is the Tobago Cays. Johnny Depp and the cast of Pirates of the Caribbean filmed a scene on one of the islands here (Petit Tabac) and in general, the Cays are just beautiful. Due to many (unmarked) reefs and lots of traffic, coming into the Cays meant we had to pay some serious attention. But the rewards were swimming in the dazzling turquoise waters, snorkeling the Horseshoe Reef, and listening to some tunes while sipping local rum and watching the sunset. A-plus!





Next stop was Canouan. This journey started out sunny, but as soon as it was time to hoist the sails, the rain made an appearance. Rain and clouds brought wind and swells (8-12 footers); our boat heeled quite precariously, even with reefed sails--at one point we might have been perpendicular with the sea. When it was time to lower the sails and come into Charlestown Bay, a major squall entered the picture. There was a bit of panic, I won't lie, as we headed straight into the vicious pelting rain and gusts of more than 20 knots. We decided to circle around a few times because the visibility was nill. Luckily the rain let up and we were able to come into the bay rather easily. Our anchor dragged twice before we found a spot with a better hold and let out every last bit of chain to ensure the fullest amount of scope. One thing to know about Charlestown Bay: strange gusts of wind come screaming over the hills spinning the boats in weird directions. This, coupled with periodic bouts of horizontally flowing rain, added unnecessary excitement to our stay in Canouan.






We exited Charlestown Bay early the next day and sailed a beam reach back to Clifton Harbor to check out of the Grenadines. Just as we lowered the sails a crazy wind blew in creating nasty swells, which consequently treated us to a gratis salt-water bath (ie. water splashing over the bow and thoroughly drenching us...at no cost). Even as we entered Clifton Harbor there was still quite a bit of wind--it was somewhat difficult to anchor in these conditions, but we managed. Luckily both customs and immigration were present so we took care of business and split. Our stay that night was back in Tyrell Bay. There we enjoyed many Caribs, rum and coke, fresh oysters (courtesy of Simon who brought them over in his boat and shucked them right in front of us), a sunset, and dinner ashore at one of local restaurants (shortly after dinner, some sort of albino bovine made its way down the road, stopping to chew on some leaves--terrifically entertaining).




Then it was time to head back to Grenada--another 40 mile adventure. Luckily, the weather cooperated. Though we had times of major tossage (my term for the way the boat gets tossed around while at sea), it was relatively pleasant. We anchored at Prickly Bay, an extremely quiet and peaceful bay lined with luxury, hi-tech houses. Seriously crazy-huge mansions. According to a local we spoke to, they are mostly owned by rich Grenadians, but we suspect some sly celebs might also own some property here.




We had our pick of some great restuarants ashore and we went with Red Crab. Good choice, since they grilled up a wicked lobster tail. On our way back, there was a kickin' party near the marina complete with a live band. Every hand held a Carib while dancing in an effort to "live it up, live it up!"



Our last day began with a rugged rainfall, but it let up just in time for us to safely return the boat and enjoy some pool time. Sometimes the best part of a sailing trip is lounging in the pool after you've returned the boat (ie. when the possibility of running aground, hitting another boat or a reef, capsizing, being taken by pirates, etc is no longer pending). Overall, this trip was a great addition to our sailing resume. Though I logged zero miles of running during the trip, I had plenty of exercise pulling on sheets, steering against the elements, and fending off moments of fright. Sunday when I headed out for a loop in the park, I felt pretty good--and enjoyed spectating the Scotland 10K while I ran. I kept a slow but steady pace and ended my week with a total of seven miles.

I'd like to end with a shout-out to the best Captain ever!! You rock!!


8 comments:

Anonymous said...

Here's to the best First Mate ever!!

-Captain-

AnthonyP said...

Wow - that sounds like an awesome trip. Those pictures make me want to be there in the worst way (better then the weather we are have here). I'd trade that trip for running any day. Welcome back.

D10 said...

Sounds like you had a wonderful time. The pictures are beautiful. Great job to you and the Captain! Welcome back to the daily grind.

RunnerGirl said...

Looks like you had a great time!

jb24 said...

Wow - I'm totally jealous

Anonymous said...

wonderful trip and write up ang! masterful use of the word "scope". whatever that means. ;P can i use it when i pull some floss out? gotta let out some scope u know.

brunettechicagogal said...

God, I need a vacation in the sun.

You and your captain are so cute
;-> !!

Anonymous said...

Sounds like you had a great trip... glad I got to read about it!!! Was great seeing you in SHY-town, Miss having you here to drag all around. Thanks for hitting me up! RUN BABY RUN!!!!
S C H M E e